Our Couturier Parisien patterned one-piece collared shirt

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At JamaisVulgaire, we've been talking about one-piece collars for years, and we even presented our first interpretation of a one-piece cut collar at the end of 2022. It's a very low and easy-to-wear neckline, perfect for an easy start to this style of finish.

But I wanted We go even further and offer you a much more characterful passA dress with a longer hem that can be worn alone or under a jacket or with a tie.

I applied for this In my opinion, the blouse with the most successful technical knowledge at the best price: Parisian fashion designer and his atelier in Serbia.

I hope you enjoy this new collaboration.

Valery

(If you don't want to read the article and explore the shirt directly, Here)

The problem with one-piece collars

VERY EXPENSIVE
Very expensive: Only from very high-end brands

NOT VERSATILE
It's not very versatile: It either looks great with a tie, or it looks great with a tie and a suit. But very rarely both

NEVER BE THE RIGHT SIZE
Never the right size leash: Lapels are often oversized, difficult to fit, and impossible to wear with a tie. Or too low and therefore too simple.

Our collaboration with Couturier Parisien

This is our first collaboration with Couturier Parisien, a still secret brand that we have been talking to you about since 2022. It was founded by Dragan Miletic, who represents the third generation of a family in the shirt industry since the 60s.

The story of the brand is told through the story of the Dragan family, who came to Paris among Yugoslav immigrants and gradually took over all textile activities that had been carried out by Italian immigrants until then.

Couturier Parisien thus has a real shirt-making know-how inherited from the past. Learning about this diaspora from Paris's best workshops I work especially for brands like Yves Saint-Laurent or Chanel.

Stevan, Dragan's grandfather

This exquisite workmanship is the first time Preserved in their workshop in Aubervilliers before being imported to Serbia.

The former Yugoslavia welcomed the first deportations from the 1960s onwards and remained close to the West despite its communist regime. Production lines focused on product quality and working conditions, Preservation of craft culture in SerbiaUnlike other countries such as Bulgaria and Türkiye. Fast fashion methods came later to these regions that were less receptive to Western craftsmanship.

Result: Every worker masters the entire shirt making process.

Additionally, extremely rare quality skins are available at this price level. It has 7 stitches/cm stitch (40% longer than standard), French seams, ultra-thin armhole and dovetail reinforcements. It is sufficient to guarantee perfect durability.

Finally, the excellent quality-price ratio can be explained by the absence of intermediaries. The Parisian Couturier has his own atelier where everything from creation to production is integrated. This workshop specifically includes an integrated design office, which enables the rapid development of many prototypes without restrictions.

I must admit that the name of the brand aroused my suspicion at first glance. But if you delve a little into their history, you will quickly understand the importance of calling yourself a “Parisian Couturier”, even if you produce in Serbia: lThe know-how and demands of Paris' best shirt-making workshops have been preserved by the brand.

What makes our one-piece collar different?

A collar that suits ties and goes well under a jacket… The original can also be worn alone.

It is a 9cm flexible collar that can easily slide under your jackets and has a 3cm collar stand at the back (It is not a full collar stand as it is a one-piece collar).

This 9cm collar is a good compromise between a neckline that is too low (and therefore too classic) and one that is too long and will swallow the neck. It's big enough to stand out and stays in place even without a jacket (and without needing to button it up).

VERSATILE STRUCTURE THANKS TO THREE-LAYER TRIPLE

Couturier Parisien uses an interlining made from three layers of iron-on (a German iron-on from Freudenberg) to recreate the look of a seamless, real collar:
– an iron-on sheet on the collar stand
– an iron-on layer at the end

Thanks to Our one-piece collars are created with three-layer interlining. You can make whatever you want with the collar according to the way you iron it:

– obtain the traditional roll of a one-piece collar,

– Buy a shirt with more pronounced wrinkles (this will be easier to wear under a suit).

Ironing the collar flat for a nice roll

Iron the folded collar for a more pronounced fold

Real blouse information

7 dots/cm stitch: Very difficult to find for less than €100. Even less is made in Europe: it takes 40% more time than the classic 5-6/cm stitch.
Here we manage to offer you the best possible price for production in Serbia.

A proven French collar: Couturier Parisien has mastered the classic French collar to perfection, making it both assertive and versatile, thanks to dozens of spaced and tip-length prototypes developed in the brand's atelier.

Luxury finishes: Beyond Brochot's classic swallowtails and intricate mother-of-pearl buttons, we have English stitching everywhere, including the inside of the shirt. This is a pseudo-English seam that is more durable than the classic English seam.

I couldn't find this type of stitching on any other shirt under €120 in my wardrobe (usually you just find the classic double needle stitching).

115g/m2 oxford from Andreazza & Castelli

We chose a weight of 115g/m2: this oxford will therefore be suitable in the mid-season, but will be especially enjoyable to wear in the summer due to its lightness.
Since Oxford is a very breathable weave, this very lightweight version would also be a great alternative to the classic cotton/linen fabric, especially under a suit jacket.

Located in Gallarate and operating since 1919, Andreazza&Castelli is a reliable Italian weaver with centuries-old know-how. It was the first spinning mill to industrialize cotton and hemp weaving..

Andreazza&Castelli is GOTS, Oeko-Tex® Standard and Better Cotton Initiative certified.

Styling Tips

Business attire

I chose to wear a Couturier Parisien oxford one-piece collared shirt here with a denim textured gurkha.

The idea was to offer a lightweight workwear style by offering alternative materials: linen instead of denim and oxford instead of chambray.

The Septième Width commando-soled tassel loafers also fall into this happy medium.

minimalist

Here the fine texture of our lightweight Oxford fabric resonates well with the linen and wool jacket and gurkha.
Likewise, the one-piece structure and natural curve of our shirt perfectly complement the curve of our Florentine collar jacket.

After work

So I opted for a slightly more “after-work” outfit, with mismatched top and bottoms and no tie; Here we rely mainly on surfaces: the quality of the fold of the jacket and the fold of the collar of the shirt. Here I chose the ink blue of the Zignone jacket to contrast with the midnight blue of the watch face.

Finally, we note the hidden reminder between the color of the jacket and the color of the loafers: To be honest, I was a little hesitant about this because it seemed a little too obvious and I got a call. However, it must be said that the color tone is slightly different and the contrast of the material is enough to make it a little more subtle.

Formal wear with tie

This more classic and stylish outfit shows how the shirt looks under a double-breasted suit.

I also chose a fairly thick silk tie for this outfit and made a double knot with it: so it's a consistent knot that takes up quite a bit of space but fits perfectly with this tie collar.

Therefore, as you can see, the spacing of the collar allows it to easily accommodate larger knots.

Guest at a wedding

Are you invited to a wedding this summer?

For our shirts, we chose a lightweight oxford that will keep you cool with or without a jacket. To maximize that feeling of freshness, we're wearing it here with an unlined linen and wool jacket and a linen gurkha.

In the end, I chose a very high-quality Hermès tie that contrasted with the jacket. Therefore, the knot is quite closed, but it still fits the collar very well.

Casual stylish outfit

Here I'm wearing my Atelier Bertrand goatskin leather jacket with a striped one-piece collared shirt with denim gurkha and Vadillo loafers from Septième Largeur.

We can say that it is a slightly more flashy version of the classic leather jacket/shirt/raw denim combination. These light blue stripes are perfect for such casual outfits.

I would have preferred to wear the shirt with the classic fold, but it looks quite nice here with the folded collar.

Our one-piece collared shirt: ordering methods

Available here €89 until the evening of April 25th, then €99. Unfortunately we are sold out in L and only a few pieces left in XS and S.
A €30 voucher from our vintage tie store will be offered for a minimum order of 2 shirts. Delivery and returns via Colissimo are free in mainland France.

valeriy

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