Test&Review Collaboration Hast&Septième Width: two-tone Nicodème loafers

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You may have noticed that men's fashion eyes are glued to the rearview mirror more than ever. From the biggest houses to secret labels, many people visit this place again and again. iconic pieces of men's wardrobe It gives them a nice makeover.

It's a phenomenon that can be explained by our growing appetite for timeless definitive values ​​and what's easy to wear and combine. And among these great classics that fulfill a function come back caught our attention, there's one thing in particular that caught our attention: the two-tone loafers inspired spectator shoes nostalgic.

This is exactly the bias of their brand new collaboration. rush And Seventh BreadthTwo young houses known for their characteristic creations steeped in tradition. Combining complementary know-how, the high-end shirt brand and renowned shoe manufacturer offer: three moccasins We bend codes with style.

In this article we will mainly talk about two contrasting loafers, the third (black grain leather and dainite sole) is a little more classic

Les Spectator Shoes: rappel

Promise ? Reinterprets celebrities audience of chaussures From the 20s and 30s. As a reminder, these avant-garde two-tone shoes were originally worn by gentlemen during social sporting events such as horse racing.

Spectator shoes, also known as shoes co-defendantis a style of two-tone oxford shoe dating from the 19th century. They reached the height of their popularity in the 1920s and 1930s.

It is said that the famous British shoemaker John Lobb designed the first spectator shoe as a cricket shoe in 1868. To prevent the dirt from being too visible, the idea came up to create a two-tone shoe by painting the parts in direct contact with the ground black.

In England at the time, this style was considered too ostentatious for a gentleman and was therefore called bad taste. Because the style was popular with “parlor lizards” and “cads” and was sometimes associated with divorce cases, the nickname “co-defendant shoe” emerged, a pun on the color scheme and the legal term designating a third party caught in the act of adultery. .

Despite this initial fame, spectator shoes have been worn by icons such as Fred Astaire, Louis Armstrong, the Kennedy family and even the Duke of Windsor, adding to their enduring nostalgic appeal.

Choosing loafers to modernize this classic

Where traditional spectator shoes feature a brogue or oxford silhouette, this collaboration rush X Seventh Breadth He set his sights on the moccasin. A smart choice that directly reflects the preppy-elegant spirit so dear to both brands, while also bringing a welcome dose of modernity and casualness.

Look at the model Nicodemus which perfectly demonstrates this approach and which we had the chance to test in preview…

Hast and Seventh Width: two brands with linked orbits

Seventh Width: Goodyear shoes made in Spain

You already know Septième Largeur well, it's our favorite Goodyear shoe brand at affordable prices.
Founded in 2009 and known for its dress shoes and patinas in its early years, the brand now stands out with more assertive combinations between workwear and stylish clothing.

Septième Width, timeless shoes
Test&Review Septième Width: Moissac ankle boots with hand-coloured dainite soles
Test&Review Seventh Width: Tobar Three buckle ankle boots
Test&Review Seventh Width: Grand Cambre Chelsea boots
Test&Review Seventh Width: Vadillo commando loafers, sturdy and stylish

The collaboration with Hast on this pair is a logical follow-up to the collaboration with Swann&Oscar two years ago on a much more rounded shape with Blake stitching.

Hast: a blouse that develops ready-to-wear with a crafted universe

Hast takes the same route as Septième Laureur. The brand's promise was initially simple: a quality work shirt for €54.

Then the offer slowly but surely expands: casual shirts, extra long-sleeved models, first chinos, large lapels and now a complete ready-to-wear range with workwear influences.

Here are our previous tests that clearly trace this evolution in Hast:
Hast shirts or how to make a very high quality shirt for 54 euros
Hast tested premium casual casual shirt: an approved high-end move
Test&Avis Hast: safe bet for formal and casual shirts
Hast Test&Review: new wide collar series
Hast Test&Review: unstructured suit jacket

Hast x Septième Width loafers

The result of intensive hand-in-hand development work, this mini capsule collection consists of: three complementary and completely different loafers. While the trio is available in intense flat black, deep English green and even two-tone hazel/sand, it's definitely this latest model that caught our attention here.

baptized Nicodemus, stands out for its relevant and controlled mix of material. Judge for yourself: one up wagtail calfskin Paired with a contrast cotton canvas upper by the prestigious Puy tannery (Living Heritage Company label). All mounted on a vegetable-tanned leather base.

A bold decision that shakes up the rules of the traditional loafer while also paying a vibrant homage to the modern moccasin. spectator shoes from yesterday. But beyond its distorted appearance, the loafer Nicodemus It also seduces with its flawless execution combining the best know-how.

Bergeronnette leather from the Puy tannery

It's really hard to miss wagtail skink was chosen for this moccasin. The product of Tannerie du Puy, which has specialized in high-end calfskin since 1946, this leather is known for its firm texture, unique natural patina and subtle color.

Contrast canvas

rush And Seventh Breadth I chose to decorate the tray with moccasins Nicodemus from an unbleached cotton canvas. This is a clear reference to workwear, as this fabric is normally used in business jackets: it gives the silhouette a look that is both stylish and nonchalant.

Far from being a simple style statement, this contrasting canvas is also very comfortable and provides additional flexibility to the upper: obviously the inside is lined with full-grain leather.

To guarantee optimal protection against everyday hazards (rain, stains, etc.), this canvas is waterproof. However, to maintain the lasting beauty of this extraordinary moccasin, maintenance is essential: a simple, regular brushing and application of a special waterproofing agent to the canvas will be sufficient.

Building

On the production side, we stick to the Septième Largeur classic. sewn good year These Nicodème loafers with open straps will be sturdy and relatively waterproof.

As proven by hand tightening stitch with a double needle on the edge of the board. A true technical mastery entrusted to the most experienced craftsmen in the workshop adds an additional touch of originality to these shoes, which are already largely decorated with remarkable details.

Everything is mounted on the characteristic Septième Width leather base:

Style Tips: An Ivy League touch for an easy-to-wear look

The biggest advantage of these moccasins Nicodemus according to spectator shoes old school? Distinctive Ivy League look that gives them a very modern, “easy to wear” and nonchalant edge.

Combining light brown wagtail calfskin with ecru canvas, Seventh Breadth It combines these moccasins with a minimalist and stylish style.

This refined and contemporary interpretation spectator shoes making them much less intimidating than vintage models with very pronounced contrasts and It allows multiple combinations without falling into retro caricature.

A look at the history and versatility of cheap loafers

Easy to put on, easy to put on, easy to take off: The moccasin gained fame by combining the elegance of a dress shoe with the comfort of a slipper. Moreover, it is this convenience that seduces students from prestigious American campuses to the point of making it a must-have item in their stylish wardrobe.

Autumn clothing from the 30s and 40s

For this 30s and 40s inspired fall outfit, I wanted to play the retro chic card with a good dose of relaxation and modernity.

I wear loafers with:
– Il Bavero's bespoke jacket (test coming soon)
– Our Couturier Parisien one-piece collar shirt
– Bernard Zins' trousers

Here I play with different shades of brown and taupe associated with the more neutral white of the solid collar shirt, which gives a more stylish side to the whole, in addition to the slightly nonchalant side of the solid collar.
The slightly longer ends associated with these tones add a simple vintage atmosphere to the outfit, which still remains modern with its cuts and proportions.

The moccasins provide a discreet reminder here with a subtle nuance, thanks to the very special tone of the wagtail leather. They bring a very chilled tiki touch to everything here.

I consciously chose simple accessories so as not to overload the silhouette: a vintage navy blue patterned tie and a pale green floral pocket square.

Solution

Moccasins, the result of the brave encounter of two formidable houses Nicodemus signed rush And Seventh Breadth Renew the clothing codes of the famous spectator shoe with material and color contrasts that are easier to wear than they look.

Chic chic look, old-school details, clean lines: the whole legacy of spectator shoes can be found in this new breed of moccasins. But that's where the comparison ends: The pattern here is much more modern, and the Goodyear stripes make them sturdier than a classic vintage pair.

You can find these Hastx7L loafers for €325 here (and if the two-tone version scares you, you can always go back to plain)

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